Eagle Beach, Aruba Travel Guide: Fofoti Trees, Oranjestad & the Wild North Coast

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Fog & Foundry Travel Journal · Aruba

Aruba is a small, dry island in the southern Caribbean, about 29 km off the coast of Venezuela and part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It sits outside the hurricane belt, the trade winds blow almost every day, and the west coast is one long run of calm, turquoise water and white sand. Eagle Beach, just north of the capital, is where we shot our Eagle Beach Mariner bikini — deep mariner blue, like the sea past the shallows. Here is our honest guide to the beach and the island around it.

At a glance

• Where: Eagle Beach, on the west coast of Aruba, a few minutes' drive north-west of Oranjestad; Aruba is a constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands
• Population: about 108,000
• Language: Papiamento and Dutch are the official languages; English and Spanish are widely spoken
• Currency: Aruban florin (AWG); US dollars are accepted almost everywhere
• Best time to visit: year-round; Aruba is outside the hurricane belt, December to April is peak season, and April to August is quieter, sunny and good value
• Average temperature: about 27–32°C / 81–90°F all year, with a steady cooling breeze; sea around 26–28°C

Eagle Beach — the fofoti beach

Eagle Beach is a wide, flat stretch of powder-white sand on Aruba's sheltered west coast, with clear, gentle water and plenty of room to spread out. It is regularly ranked among the best beaches in the Caribbean and the world. Its trademark is the fofoti trees — twisted, low-growing trees that the trade winds have bent permanently toward the south-west — which may be the most photographed trees on the island. Low-rise hotels sit back across the road, so it feels far less built-up than Palm Beach just to the north.

Our take: come early to have the famous fofoti trees to yourself for photos, and stay for sunset — the beach faces west. Shade is the one thing in short supply, so bring an umbrella or book a palapa through a hotel. From about March to November, sea turtles nest here: marked nests are protected, so give them space and keep lights off the sand at night.

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Oranjestad — the colourful capital

Aruba's capital is a short drive or bus ride south of Eagle Beach. Its old streets are lined with Dutch-colonial buildings painted pink, yellow, blue and mint, with ornate gables and white trim. Fort Zoutman, built at the end of the 18th century, is the island's oldest building, and its Willem III clock tower now houses a small historical museum. A free open-air streetcar runs along the main shopping street between the cruise terminal and the centre.

Our take: ride the streetcar one way and walk back, stopping for a fresh fruit juice or a cold Balashi, the island's own beer. The colours look best in the softer light of late afternoon.

Beyond Eagle Beach — the rest of the island

North of Eagle Beach, Palm Beach is the lively strip of high-rise resorts, beach bars and water sports. Keep going toward the California Lighthouse and you reach Arashi Beach and Boca Catalina, small, calmer beaches where locals swim and snorkel among tropical fish. The north and east coasts are another world: wild, rocky and windswept, with cacti, limestone cliffs and Arikok National Park, which covers almost a fifth of the island. And yes, Aruba has flamingos — the famous pink flock lives on small private islands off the south coast.

Our take: spend one day in Arikok with a 4x4 or a guided tour (the Natural Pool, Conchi, is a rough ride but worth it), and one morning snorkelling at Boca Catalina. Don't swim on the north coast: the currents are strong.

Where to eat

• Keshi yena — the island's signature dish: a round of Edam or Gouda cheese stuffed with spiced chicken or beef and baked until it melts.
• Pastechi — crisp fried pastries filled with cheese, chicken or tuna, the classic Aruban breakfast on the go.
• Pan bati and funchi — a slightly sweet pancake-like bread and a firm cornmeal side, served with stews and fish.
• Fresh fish — grilled or fried catch of the day; Zeerovers in Savaneta, a fishermen's spot on the water, is a local favourite.
• Beachfront restaurants along Eagle and Palm Beach are made for sundowners with your toes in the sand.

Culture & local life

Aruba calls itself "One Happy Island" — it is printed on the licence plates — and the welcome is genuinely warm. Papiamento, a Creole language with roots in Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch and African languages, is what you will hear on the street: try bon dia (good morning) and masha danki (thank you very much). Carnival is the biggest event of the year, building through January and February to a Grand Parade in Oranjestad, and on New Year's Eve groups go house to house singing the traditional Dande.

Good to know

• The tap water is desalinated seawater and safe to drink.
• The sun is strong and the breeze hides it — reapply sunscreen often, and choose a reef-safe one.
• Hold on to your hat: the trade winds blow almost every day.
• Turtle nesting season runs from about March to November — never touch turtles or hatchlings, and keep lights off the beach at night.
• Renting a car is the easiest way to see the whole island; the public Arubus also runs along the hotel strip and into Oranjestad.
• Prices are often shown in both florins and US dollars, and US-style tipping is common.

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