A dhow sailing at sunset off Nungwi, Zanzibar

Zanzibar Beach Guide: Nungwi, Kendwa & Paje

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Fog & Foundry Travel Journal · Zanzibar

Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous archipelago off the coast of Tanzania, and its main island, Unguja, is what most people mean when they say “Zanzibar”: spice farms, the old lanes of Stone Town and a ring of white-sand beaches on the Indian Ocean. Our Zanzibar Sage bikini is named after the island's north coast, where Nungwi's powder-white sand, wooden dhows and glass-clear water set the mood. Here is our honest guide to Nungwi and two more beaches we love: what they're like, when to go and what to know before you go.

At a glance

  • Where: Unguja (Zanzibar Island), Zanzibar archipelago, Tanzania — about 35 km off the mainland
  • Population: about 1.9 million across the archipelago (2022 census)
  • Language: Swahili; English is widely spoken in tourism, and a few Swahili greetings go a long way
  • Currency: Tanzanian shilling (TZS); US dollars are widely accepted for hotels and tours
  • Best time to visit: June to October, the cooler dry season, and December to February, hot and mostly dry; the long rains fall from March to May
  • Average temperature: daytime highs of about 30–34°C / 86–93°F, nights 20–24°C; sea 25–29°C
White sand and turquoise water along Nungwi beach, Zanzibar, with hotels on the low cliffs
Nungwi, Zanzibar — white sand and turquoise water below the low coral cliffs. Photo: Polly Sadler / Unsplash (Unsplash License)

Nungwi — the dhow village

At the northern tip of the island, about an hour and a half by road from Stone Town, Nungwi is a fishing village turned beach town. The sand is soft and white, the water is clear and swimmable at most tides, and the village is still known for its dhow builders, who shape wooden boats by hand right on the shore. Every evening the sun sets straight into the sea.

Our take: swim in the morning, when the water is calmest, and book a sunset dhow cruise at least once — it's the classic Nungwi evening. Walk past the hotels to the boatyards to watch the builders at work, and ask before you take photos.

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Kendwa — the all-day swim

Just south of Nungwi along the west coast, Kendwa is a long, wide stretch of soft sand where the tide barely pulls back. That makes it one of the few beaches on the island where you can swim at almost any time of day, and the sunsets are just as good as Nungwi's.

Our take: walk over from Nungwi along the shore at low to mid tide (about 30–45 minutes), spend the afternoon in the water, and stay for sunset. The coastal path above the beach is lovely in the morning light.

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Kitesurfer in the air over the turquoise lagoon at Paje, Zanzibar
Paje, Zanzibar — a kitesurfer over the lagoon. Photo: Jules Bassoleil / Unsplash (Unsplash License)

Paje — the kite lagoon

On the east coast, about an hour from Stone Town, Paje faces the sunrise across a wide, shallow lagoon protected by a reef. Steady trade winds have made it one of East Africa's best-known kitesurfing spots. At low tide the sea pulls back hundreds of metres, revealing sandbars, rock pools and the seaweed farms that local women tend by hand.

Our take: check the tide table before you plan a swim — high tide is the time to be in the water, low tide is for walking the flats. Beginners can take kitesurfing lessons in the shallow lagoon.

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A plate of Zanzibar pizza at the Forodhani Gardens night market, Stone Town
Forodhani Gardens, Stone Town, Zanzibar — Zanzibar pizza at the night market. Photo: Polly Sadler / Unsplash (Unsplash License)

Where to eat

  • Zanzibar pizza — a thin dough parcel filled with egg, meat or vegetables (or banana and chocolate), fried on a griddle. Try it at the Forodhani Gardens night market on the Stone Town waterfront.
  • Urojo, or “Zanzibar mix” — a tangy, turmeric-yellow soup loaded with fritters, potatoes and chutney.
  • Pilau and biryani fragrant with local spices, and octopus curry in coconut sauce.
  • Fresh grilled fish and seafood skewers on the beach, and sugar-cane juice pressed with ginger and lime.
Busy market street in Stone Town, Zanzibar
Stone Town, Zanzibar — a busy market street. Photo: Aron Marinelli / Unsplash (Unsplash License)

Culture & local life

Zanzibar's Swahili culture grew out of centuries of Indian Ocean trade, and you can see African, Arab, Persian and Indian influences side by side. Stone Town, the old heart of Zanzibar City, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its maze of narrow lanes and its heavy carved wooden doors. Cloves and other spices brought the island its fortune in the 19th century, and spice-farm tours are still a highlight. Listen out for taarab, the island's orchestral, poetic music. Around 98% of Zanzibaris are Muslim, so life slows during prayer times and Ramadan, and “pole pole” — slowly, slowly — is the pace everywhere.

A fisherman carrying two freshly caught fish up the beach in Zanzibar
Zanzibar, Tanzania — a fisherman bringing in the morning's catch. Photo: Philippe Krief / Unsplash (Unsplash License)

Good to know

  • Foreign visitors entering through Zanzibar need inbound travel insurance from the Zanzibar Insurance Corporation. Check the Tanzanian embassy’s guidance for the correct policy provider and verify visa rules for your passport before travel.
  • Bikinis are for the beach and the hotel. In Stone Town and the villages, cover shoulders and knees.
  • Tides make a big difference, especially on the east coast — always check them before a beach day.
  • Carry some shillings for markets and street food; dollars work for hotels and tours.
  • Plastic bags are banned in Tanzania, so pack a reusable tote.
  • Use reef-safe sunscreen and leave coral and shells where you find them.

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