• Where: Tulum, on the Caribbean coast about two hours south of Cancún; Isla Holbox, off the northern tip of the Yucatán Peninsula, reached by ferry from Chiquilá; both in Quintana Roo, Mexico
• Population: about 33,000 in the town of Tulum (2020 census); Holbox is a small island village
• Language: Spanish, with Yucatec Maya spoken in many local families; English is common in hotels and restaurants
• Currency: Mexican peso (MXN); cards work widely in Tulum, but carry cash on Holbox
• Best time to visit: November to April, the dry season, with sunny days and lower humidity; May to October is hotter, with afternoon showers and seasonal seaweed, and hurricane season runs June to November
• Average temperature: highs of 28–33°C / 82–91°F year-round; sea about 26–29°C

South of Paraíso, a narrow road runs for kilometres between the jungle and the sea, lined with small hotels, palm-thatched beach clubs, rattan swings and restaurants under the trees. Behind it, a short ride inland, freshwater cenotes — limestone sinkholes filled with clear, cool water — make the perfect break from the sun.

Our take: rent a bike in town — the road is flat and parking is scarce. Many beach clubs ask for a minimum spend for a lounger, so pick one for lunch and stay the afternoon. Save a morning for a cenote, and shower before you swim: most ask you not to wear sunscreen in the water.

Shop Tulum Paisley →

Holbox is a long, thin island inside the Yum Balam protected area, and its name means "black hole" in Yucatec Maya. There are no cars — just sandy streets, golf carts and bicycles. East of the village, Punta Mosquito is a sandbar where the lagoon stays knee-deep for a long way out, and flamingos and pelicans feed in the shallows. From June to September, boats take visitors out to swim with the whale sharks that gather off the island.

Our take: walk out along the beach at low tide in the late morning, wade the shallow channels and keep a respectful distance from the birds. Come back to the village side for sunset, when everyone gathers on the sand.

Shop Holbox Hibiscus →

• Cochinita pibil — pork marinated in achiote and sour orange and slow-cooked, the Yucatán classic, eaten in tacos or tortas with pickled red onion.
• Sopa de lima — a light chicken and lime soup, and panuchos and salbutes, small fried tortillas topped with shredded chicken or turkey, avocado and onion.
• Fresh ceviche and grilled fish at beachside restaurants, and on Holbox, the island's famous lobster pizza.
• For better prices, eat at the taquerías in Tulum town rather than on the beach road.

This is Maya country. Tulum was one of the last cities the Maya built and one of the few on the coast: a walled port, protected on three sides, that was at its height between the 13th and 15th centuries. Yucatec Maya is still spoken in towns and villages across the peninsula, and hammocks are as common as beds. Holbox grew up as a fishing village, and life there still runs at island pace — bare feet, sandy streets and bright murals on the walls.

• Seaweed (sargassum) can wash up between spring and early autumn; check local seaweed reports before you book.
• Holbox: take a bus or drive to Chiquilá, park on the mainland and take the passenger ferry — cars aren't allowed on the island.
• Use biodegradable sunscreen, and none at all in the cenotes.
• Fly into Cancún or Tulum's own airport; Tulum is about two hours south of Cancún by road.
• Tip around 10–15% in restaurants if service isn't included.