02 / THE BUKIT COAST

Sand, reef and cliffs.

Padang Padang — the hidden cove

You reach Padang Padang down a flight of steps that squeezes through a narrow gap in the rock, and at the bottom a small crescent of golden sand opens up between the cliffs. Inside the cove the water is often calm enough to swim, while just off the point breaks one of Bali's most famous — and most serious — left-hand reef waves.

Our take: come early in the morning, before the day-trippers, and bring small notes for the entrance fee. Swim inside the cove and leave the outer reef to expert surfers; at its best the wave breaks over very shallow coral. Keep your bag zipped — monkeys live in the trees above the steps.

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Bingin — the cliffside village

A few minutes along the coast, Bingin is a string of guesthouses, surf shacks and small warungs stacked down the cliff on steep stairs and paths. The beach below is narrow and reef-lined, with a short, punchy surf break in front and shallow rock pools at low tide.

Our take: time your swim for mid to high tide, when there's water over the reef, and wear reef shoes. Stay for sunset with a fresh coconut at one of the warungs on the stairs — then budget the energy for the climb back up.

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Uluwatu — the cliff temple

At the south-west tip of the peninsula, Pura Luhur Uluwatu, one of Bali's important sea temples, stands on a cliff edge high above the waves. Below and to the north, Uluwatu's beach and world-class surf break are reached by stairs through a cave in the cliff. Long-tailed macaques roam the temple grounds.

Our take: visit the temple in the late afternoon and stay for the Kecak fire dance at sunset. Wear (or borrow) a sarong, and put away sunglasses, hats and phones near the monkeys — they are expert thieves.

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Where to eat

• Nasi campur — rice with a little of everything: vegetables, satay, egg, sambal and krupuk crackers. Every warung has its own version.
• Babi guling — spit-roasted pork with spices, the island's celebration dish.
• Sate lilit — minced fish or meat with coconut and spices, wrapped around lemongrass or bamboo sticks and grilled.
• Bebek betutu — duck slow-cooked in banana leaves with a rich spice paste.
• Small family-run warungs are the cheapest and often the best places to eat; on the Bukit, cafés along the cliffs serve smoothie bowls and fresh coconuts with a surf view.

Culture & local life

Unlike the rest of mostly Muslim Indonesia, Bali is largely Hindu, and religion is part of everyday life. Each morning you'll see small palm-leaf trays of flowers and rice — canang sari — placed on doorsteps, shrines and even dashboards, and the calendar is full of temple ceremonies, when villagers in traditional dress carry towering offerings through the streets. Once a year, on Nyepi, the Balinese day of silence, the whole island stops: no traffic, no lights, and even the airport closes for the day.

Good to know

• International visitors pay Bali's tourism levy (IDR 150,000 per person) — you can pay it online before you arrive. Check Indonesia's visa rules for your passport.
• Step around the canang sari offerings on the pavement rather than over them.
• Cover your shoulders and knees and wear a sarong and sash at temples.
• Traffic on the Bukit is slow; most people get around by scooter or with a driver.
• The Bukit beaches sit below cliffs and over reef — check the tide and surf before you swim, and wear reef shoes.
• Use reef-safe sunscreen and leave coral and shells where you find them.